Explore the Puncak on Foot

Top of Pangrango

2009-11-06T23:18:00.000-08:00

Pangrango! After describing Alfred Russel Wallace's 1861 exploration of the Gede-Pangrango summits in a February 1 entry on this blog (http://explorethepuncakonfoot.blogspot.com/2009/02/more-on-puncak-traverses.html) I can now add some rather more up-to-date tips following a hike up Pangrango last weekend (October 31st 2009) by myself with Chris Starkey, Ben Walters and Scott Thompson.

Anyone reading nineteenth-century accounts will be struck by how little has changed, as the main trail from Cibodas botanical gardens, at least as far as the hot springs, has been used for nearly two hundred years now. No doubt the trail then was rough and narrow. Today this trail is not quite as well-frequented as the main Bogor-Puncak highway, but it's not far off.

Climbers of Gede have a number of route options. According to old hands, the easiest ascent is from Gunung Putri village (start of WIPA circle route D2) via the Suryakencana Alun Alun (grassy meadow) reaching the summit in 4-5 hours walking. The hardest ascent is from Selabinatana, on the south (Sukabumi) side of the mountain, again via Suryakencana. An intermediate option is the "historic" route from Cibodas Botanical Gardens, past the scenic waterfall and hot springs and up to Kandang Badak, on the shoulder between Gede and Pangrango.

If you're climbing Pangrango only, this last is the most sensible route, as the others will require you to climb over the top of Gede before you even get to Pangrango! As the Gede summit (2958m) is already quite familiar to most of our team, we focused last weekend on the Pangrango summit (3019m).

Accordingly, we turned up at National Park Headquarters in Cibodas on Saturday 31st October 2009 well before opening time. Most inconveniently, you must show up in person at the Park Office to get a climbing permit, but the office does not actually open until 9 o'clock, making it practically impossible to get a permit and make the round trip to the summit in the same day. Another bureaucratic obstacle is the recently-introduced obligation for all groups to take at least one guide, at a cost of Rp325,000 to Rp400,000 depending on the route. Apparently even the guides are now complaining about this as the compulsion has repelled many potential climbers, even those who might have hired a guide voluntarily in the past.

We managed to persuade the management that Scott was experienced enough to function as our guide but we took a porter anyway, at Rp275,000, to help transport our tents, instant noodle stores and packs of freshly-bought nasi bungkus (rice take-aways). Bea, the porter was our main expense, along with food, the only other obligatory fees being Rp42,000 per person for the climbing permit and Rp3,000 per person entry fee at the Cibodas "tourism zone" entry gate.

Cibodas Botanical Garden is a major local tourist attraction and the dozens of food stalls and souvenir stands that ring the outside car parks start to open soon after daybreak. We tucked into a tasty breakfast of nasi goreng at Warung Cantigi, in an alley opposite the park office. Scott told me that Rizal, the warung owner, led the rescue of seven climbers lost and feared dead on Gunung Ciremai earlier this year- we hoped not to give him the chance to further prove his rescue credentials on our party!

Breakfast in stomach, permits in hand, we were finally able to start climbing. As seen in WIPA map D square Z4, the route first follows an asphalt track that runs between the golf course and the iron fence of the Botanical Gardens. After about 400m we turn left to find the National Park Checkpoint, where we show the permit and then begin the ascent up to the ranger huts and along the trail to the Cibeureum Waterfall. We managed to spot some lutung (ebony leaf monkeys) playing in the trees just a few hundred metres beyong the checkpoint. Since the WIPA maps show the valleys and villages encircling Gede-Pangrango, rather than the mountains themselves, we soon leave the WIPA map to walk on the broad footpath that leads to the waterfall. On weekends this is a hugely popular jaunt, and you'll probably meet more people than a kitten heading to St.Ives, including picnickers on the somewhat dilapidated boardwalk that park authorities have built across the swampy section.

The path becomes far quieter after the first hour, after the clearly marked junction where the summit path branches left from the waterfall path. First-time visitors will want to continue on the 300 meters to see the waterfall, as it's a lovely spot, before returning to the junction for the next stage of the ascent. The path becomes noticeably steeper as you head up to the hot spring. While the Cibeureum waterfall is a comfortable stroll up a gentle slope, the hike to the hot spring demands a higher level of fitness, but is still a broad, open path with easy footings.

After an hour and a half or two hours you are rewarded with the sight of steam wafting across the lush hillside and the chance to bask in the warm vapors rising from the scaldingly hot streams. The path here actually passes right along a ledge where the hot water cascades down into the valley below. Solid posts and ropes have been provided for your safety as you traverse the slippery, moss-covered stones. Wear good shoes here! Chris reckons his Ace Hardware work boots were melting away as the soles dipped into the scalding waters.

The hot springs is one of several places along the trail where park managers have set up little shelters and picnic tables. We tucked into our copious lunch of rice, chicken, rendang (coconut beef), nangka (stewed jackfruit) and daun singkong (cassava leaves), while enjoying the view along the Puncak ridgeline, although haze shrouded some features and made the villages visible in the far valleys indistinct.

After the hot springs, we climbed another hour past a smaller waterfall and several spacious camping spots before reaching our intended campsite, the broad and comfortable Kandang Badak. Here you will find piped spring water, a grim-looking concrete shelter and pitches for a dozen or more tents. Ignoring Bea's advice to raise our tents inside the gloomy shelter, we set up the tents on a flat site in a glade. It was a decision we soon regretted, as one of our tents succumbed to a torrential late afternoon downpour and become unusable. Some of our neighbors had rented tents from park headquarters and found them to be similarly leaky. Luckily, we were quick enough to save most of our equipment from a drenching, and managed, with the shelter and one tent, to cook dinner and settle down (if that's the right expression) for a few hours sleep.

At 2.30 am we rose to find the weather still cool, misty and threatening more rain. Scott, nominally our guide, decided he did not need to climb Pangrango one more time in foul conditions and pulled out, while Bea, our porter. stayed at camp as agreed to guard the tents. This left Chris, Ben and I without a guide to hike up to the summit in the dark and spooky forest. Although there were thirty or more hikers at the camp, most were heading to Gede, leaving us practically alone on Pangrango. Luckily, we did manage to team up with a couple of local climbers, and the path itself, although tough, was mostly readily discernible among the trees. The feared rain and cold did not set in, even as we neared 3000m altitude; I was quite comfortable hiking with just a shirt and t-shirt, though the cold quickly made itself felt at rest stops.

Confusingly, the path often splits to offer a choice of a steep, scrambly ascent up a gulley, or a gentler switchback, but then rejoins higher up. As far as we were able, we saved our legs by choosing the less severe ascent, but even this often involves hauling oneself over fallen trees, clinging onto roots for support and ducking under overhanging branches. This last challenge proved beyond me at one point and I needed an unscheduled sit-down to get over my dizziness, in addition to our regular pauses for drink and deep breathing.

From Kandang Badak to the summit would be just over two hours for quick movers, but closer to three for Chris and me. We gratefully reached the top plateau and strolled the last few hundred metres through the subalpine forest to the summit marker.

Unlike Gede's summit, with its yawning crater and sweeping views, Pangrango's summit is cloaked in trees. There is one break in the foliage toward the east, but cloud cover shut off the potential vista toward Gunung Gede, leaving us to pose for photos beside the graffiti-scrawled summit pillar and scoff coconut biscuits, as the frigid air quickly chilled the sweat we had worked up during the climb.

Once the frisky Ben explored the path to the alun alun (grassy meadow) a few minutes walk below the summit, we began the long descent back to the campsite and a hearty breakfast of oatmeal and honey. Headlamps no longer needed, we could now appreciate the splendor of the subalpine forest, with its dwarf trees, shrubs and verdant overhanging branches.

While young scamps with shock-absorber knees may skip down the mountain in half the time it takes to come up, older walkers should allow as much time for descent as for ascent- 2 to 3 hours from the summit to Kandang Badak, 1 and a half hours from Kandang Badak to the hot springs, 2 hours from the hot springs to the Cibeureum Waterfall, and an hour from the waterfall back to the park gate.

Compared to many Indonesian volcanoes, this is a very attractive and not too challenging hike, with a pretty forest, attractive landmarks along the route and a solid and easy-to-follow trail. First-time visitors though, should climb Gede in preference to Pangrango, as the summit views are far superior, while the speedy and ambitious could attempt both over two days, perhaps hiking to the summit of Gede for sunrise on the second day, moving on to Pangrango by midday and returning to the park gate in the afternoon. You could do a round trip up either Gede or Pangrango in a single day, but, as with other Indonesian mountains, the chance of finding a clear view from the summit in the middle of the day is quite small.

Lost in the Forest?

2009-09-01T18:51:00.000-07:00

Since 1991 when I began hiking the foot of the mountains, the worst surprise that ever befell me was to get into time trouble on a forested ridgeline at nightfall in the year 2000, with no choice but to await the morning while standing in the rain. This nearly happened again on Aug 17, when Robert Baldwin, who lives in Pancawati, and I decided to explore the route up Pasir Pondok-cateng and down Pasir Kramat in B Sector Ciawi, on the slopes of Gn Pangrango. I had in tow two workers from Vila Botani (on the slopes of Gn Salak).

On the map, our plan looked doable. We merely had to ascend Pasir Pondokcateng, advancing about 4km from the edge of the forest, to cross over to the next ridgeline to the left, Pasir Kra-mat, and to descend that ridgeline, again for about 4 km. The WIPA maps show all these trails as solid lines, meaning they should be easy to follow. Baldy and I had already descended Pasir Kramat last year after entering it at 1300masl from a good trail on Pr Pancawati, as recounted in a 3 December posting (Puncaktrek blog).

A leisurely morning walk brought us by 11 a.m. to point B on Pr Pondokcateng (route B1), a wide spot on the ridgeline amid intact rainforest, a place I had traversed at least a dozen times and Baldy thrice. From here we ventured further up the pasir for the first time. Our advance slowed as the trail narrowed. Around 12:30, we contoured into the valley on the left on a well worn trail entering an area that had been clear-cut some decades ago and was now mostly covered in tall bamboo forest, "awesome" said Baldy. After 20 minutes, we realized this was the dead end shown on the map, not the hoped-for crossing to Pr Kramat. It was 1:15 by the time we had backtracked to the faint ridgeline trail and I knew we were already in time trouble. Five hours before nightfall weren’t enough to des-cend on the intended route on Pr Kramat, but we could still hope at least to cross over to Pr Pancawati (the ridgeline behind Pr Kramat) at an altitude of 1300m before nightfall and thence escape the jungle on a well-worn trail.

From this point the ridgeline trail up Pr Pondokcateng was overgrown in places. Fortunately, Pk Acep from Vila Botani had his golok, so he moved ahead and began hacking at the overgrown brush. By 3:30, we reached a zone onthe narrow ridgeline at 1300m with few young trees – most likely, another clear cutting site. My altimeter showed we were up exactly 330m from point B, meaning that the trail should turn left and cross to Pr Kramat, according to the map. Instead the trail petered out.

What to do now? To advance we needed to cross two valleys; simple bushwacking would take too long. To retreat we needed to des-cend 4 km on a difficult path that had taken over 5 hours to ascend. Either way we were likely to be stranded in the forest, unable to advance in the darkness without a flashlight. After mulling a bit, I awoke to a clue that Baldy had already noticed – we stood before an eroded, overgrown bulldozer track. It traversed the ridgeline and led north toward the valley. It looked as if it had been dug out 2 decades or more ago – perhaps the route by which the missing trees had been removed. Baldy wondered if we had even been here last December, as he recalled seeing a similar track then, but that wasn’t possible, as my GPS showed we were some distance (less than 300m) from a point on Pr Kramat where we HAD been in December. But there was a darn good chance that the two tracks were connected.

So we began to follow the eroded bulldozer track. Pk Acep again took the lead, hacking away at the bushes and small trees. From time to time I lost sight of the track, but Pk Acep was miraculously able to follow it as it snaked its way down a gully in a westerly direction, to reach the point where a valley formed and to descend thereafter on the right lip of the valley, on the next ridgeline (Pr Kramat). Then the track suddenly turned right to cross that ridgeline and contour up the edge of the second valley. We crossed a tiny creek (for which I did have a waypoint from December) that separates Pr Kramat from Pr Pancawati and began to contour out of the second val-ley. By 5 p.m., to my delight, we had reached the main trail on Pr Pancawati (another waypoint) and began to race down the ridgeline in a light rain. By 5:45 we were out of the forest, in the clear, proof that we’re pretty safe with a good trail map, an altimeter and a library of waypoints in the GPS memory, even when trails have become overgrown. We reached Baldy’s house before the downpour started.

Tabrik to Gedeh plantation ring route

2009-06-20T22:22:00.000-07:00

I agree with Alex that the ring route is dynamic. The route shown on the map has the advantage of including a lot of little-used forest tracks, which are fascinating to explore. The disadvantage is that some seem so little-used that they are difficult to follow or have not been maintained at all.

I recommend everyone using the WIPA guides to explore the delights of Puncak independently to proceed as I have done. Start with the easier circle routes. This will build confidence with the maps and make full use of Alex's clear route descriptions. Then move on to the more difficult circle routes and then the easier ring route sections, which are in the Ciawi sector and the Cisarua sector up to Taman Safari. The ring route there is at lower altitude, meaning the valleys are not as deep. There are plenty of farmers to ensure that the paths are well-used and to offer advice to the disoriented walker!

You will thus have lots of familiarity with the maps and terrain before you get to the ring route in the Cipanas and Cugenang sector, which counts more as an arduous hike than a weekend stroll.

Hopefully, with a few more walks we'll build up enough knowledge to advise on the current preferred routes for everyone exploring this beautiful area of Java.

There is certainly some great walking on the ring route in the Cugenang sector, which is a lovely area scenically, and largely free of the motorcycle noise that you get on the north side of Gunung Gede. The views, southward toward Cianjur, are quite distinct from those close to Puncak itself, and the people are less affected by the Bogor tourist bustle.

The two main difficulties are the steep and difficult valley crossings at the Ci Salande (map square O9, also a part of the E3 circle route) and at the Ci Binong (map square Y17, just before the ring route joins the E2 circle route). As Alex describes, sliding down on your butt is about the only way to make this second descent unless you have a pair of sharp climbing poles to dig into the soil; a simple wooden staff is not secure. Next time, we'll look at the next crossing lower down the valley, or perhaps just stay in the tea plantation zone, where the navigation is easy! With so few farmers or even woodcutters around in this area, it is very easy to get lost in the kaliandra, as seen in the photo!

It was certainly reassuring navigationally to be back in the huge Gedeh tea plantation , where the landscape is all open, with nary a tea shed to obstruct the view! Once safely in the plantation we were able to enjoy the sunset without fear of getting caught out in the forest overnight.

Ring Route in Cugenang at the end of the Rainy Season

2009-06-09T06:12:00.000-07:00

In the last few weeks, our team took two long days to explore the ring route in Cugenang, from Kmp Tabrik to the Gede tea plantation. There were four of us on both occasions: Me, John Hargreaves, Jody Randall and Chris Starkey. Dave van Dyke joined us on the first occasion. We were blessed by good weather both days –no rain on Saturday, 6 June, and a short and light afternoon rain two weeks before that.

The ring route is largely the same, but some of the recommended connections have changed. From Tabrik, it works out better to ascend the ridgeline for a few hundred meters before crossing to Pr Panon. From Pr Panon, it works out better to follow the pasir all the way down to a T-junction near its bottom, then go R to cross back over the river before going L on the lower leg of route E3 to make the traverse to Kmp Baru Kusuma. From Kmp Baru Kusuma, the crossing to Pr We above Cijoho is the same, except that the trekker may prefer a lower crossing of Ci Legokkuray if it is wished to visit the charming Kmp Loji Kolot. From Pr We to the Gedeh Tea Plantation the crossing is as shown, but be aware that the descent from the contouring path to approach the waterfall (Curug Leunca) is extremely steep – some of us preferred to slide down on our butts for a good 50m descent, believe it or not.

The crossing of the tea gardens is as shown until point 1314 at a water tank in block C’14. From there, however, the trekker will do well to diverge from the ring route on footpaths and instead follow route E2 on stone roads to an intersection with a major up-down stone road in block E’16, marked with a tea-shed symbol. Trudge up the long ascent on the stone road to rejoin the ring route at an elevation of around 1475m, then traverse to the tea shed symbol at the foot of Pr Culamega, in block I’13, shortly before “10 rasamala trees”.

During our crossing of the Gede plantation, I was surprised by the disappearance of familiar tea sheds that had long served us as reliable landmarks, including those in block B’16, block I’13 and block I’17. They appear to have been cannibalized, perhaps no longer needed. But the scenery remains stunning, particularly on the high traverse of Gede. In the two days we walked over 35km, but that included some backtracking. Actual distance on the ring route, from Tabrik to the was probably 25km or less.

The ring route is dynamic and needs an fresh guide from time to time. Such a guide, complete with GPS waypoints, may soon be under preparation by some members of our team.

A difficult crossing

2009-04-05T07:22:00.000-07:00

I'm not surprised by John and Jody's bafflement on where to cross from Galudra to Perkebunan Gede. Starting in the mid-Nineties, I got lost more than once trying to cross the valley of the Cibatulempar. The valley has many waterfalls and is very deep in places. Back around 2000, we had a good route, then one dry season, the route disappeared with some major landslides. After which we did find another route but not as good as the old one. Good luck on your next try, I'll join you if I can.

Rainy days in Puncak

2009-03-15T02:37:00.000-07:00

Scared of hiking in Puncak in the rainy season? You should be! I may have encouraged you to risk the rain in my last post, a recent escapade in the forest above Pasaripis has persuaded me to change my opinion 180 degrees!

Well, not quite... But we were reminded that an afternoon cloudburst on steep, muddy and indistinct trails deep in the forest provokes anxiety, even more than driving one's Kijang through an axle-deep Jakarta flood, wondering whether you will make it to the other side.

The goal of this walk was to cover the next section of the ring route, from the Sarongge Tea Plantation in the Sector D map to the Gedeh Tea Plantation in the Sector E map finishing in Gedeh village itself, below the tea factory.

Jody handled the GPS, I read the map, and our intrepid photographer Clarence Garay took all the pictures shown here, at great risk to his safety, sanity and equipment. Without Alex to guide us, we realised we would need all our navigational resources as we made our usual dawn start on 21 February.

The first section of the route, from the strawberry farm above the Sarongge tea plantation, was the same as on the Sarongge to Cipanas trek described below. We accompanied the early-morning commuters to the fields above Babakan Sarongge. This track serves a vast swathe of ploughed fields and at sunrise it is busy with farmers heading up and schoolchildren heading down.

About 150m above Babakan Sarongge the ring route diverges from the larger D3 track onto a smaller side path. 200m up this smaller path is another junction with a yet smaller path to the left across the fields, which may be sprouting carrots, cabbages or more exotic vegetables depending on the season. At the edge of the field we need to hop over a small rise to enter the brush and descend steeply to the Ci Anjur Leutik. The first few meters are overgrown but the path becomes clearer lower down, though still steep.

Emerging from this valley we enter more fields of cabbage and broccoli, this time pleasantly shaded by a few sparse trees. Crisscrossing paths complicate routefinding, but as long as we head southward and upward we will reach the Pasir Galudra ridge top, where we descend the ridge along the main track, busy with the familiar motorcyclists struggling up the rutted trail with sacks of fertilizer.

The descent to Galudra village offers fine views back across the valley toward Sarongge and down toward Galudra itself, with its handful of impressive villas, in spacious, grassy lots at the top end of the asphalt road. Walking time to this point was 3 hours for the 5.5km, and the first drops of rain were beginning to fall.

Drawing level with the whitest and newest of the villas below us on our left (only the four villas further down are marked on the map), we find a small path on the right that cuts back to the valley of the Ci Gadog. After a refreshing splash in the stream we climbed out onto the ridge above Pasirmalang. Reaching the ridge top itself was again tricky but by forging due south across the fields we made it onto the main up-down path, which also forms part of the D4 circle route. The ring route here accompanies the D4 circle route, ascending Pasir Malang and entering what is shown on the map as forest but is actually the "mixed garden" blend of ploughed fields and eucalyptus trees. (A WIPA D4 sign on a tree marks the entry to the "forest".)

The section across the next valley, the Batukasong, is in good condition but heavy rain as we emerged into the fields persuaded us to have lunch in a newly-built bamboo farmers' hut; the family, including husband, wife, two sons and a daughter, who were also sheltering from the rain, remembered me from my visit last year while on the D4 route, a reminder of how few foreigners pass this way.

Once the rain eased we set course for Pasir Lini, reinvigorated by a gift of delicious bananas. Our final destination, the Gedeh tea plantation, was now in plain sight, but the valleys separating it from Pasir Lini are intimidatingly steep. Instead of following the ring route marked on the map, which heads down the ridge, we sought guidance from the farmers and scouted out another valley crossing, higher up above the fields. This brought us onto Pasir Barusintok (which appears on both the south edge of the Sector D map and the north edge of the Sector E map) at an altitude of 1551m. Again the paths were somewhat confusing until we found the main up-down path, which we ascended to our day's high point of 1605m.

From this point, we turned left to seek the path that enters the forest to descend to the river. (It is in square C10 on the Sector D map, and in square M'10 on the Sector E map, above the monkey symbol.) We did eventually discover the well-concealed path, but from this point things become a little hazy, as teeming rain obliterated my notes and deterred Jody from recording GPS points. Dim light under cloud and forest canopy makes it hard to read the map, even when the water has been wiped off. Interestingly, the thick vegetation saves us from having raindrops pounding on our head, but the whole forest seems to soak up water like a sponge, so that it quickly seeps through to the skin.

The descent to the river here is steep, overgrown and muddy, producing a treacherous journey down to the stream, which, as we arrived, was quickly turning into a torrent. At first we failed to find the path on the other bank and waded downriver to search for it, only to eventually discover that the right bank path is actually a few meters above the crossing point, not below it. Finding this path gave us a great sense of relief, though we were still very far from out of the woods. Numerous dead-end woodcutters' paths soon led us astray and left us disoriented, dashing our hopes of crossing directly through the forest to the Gedeh tea plantation. Certainly in future we will assess the potential difficulty of long forest crossings more carefully before attempting them in such a deluge.

Finally we decided to descend to the river to the crossing point above Curug Gaol, return to the left bank and then climb back out to Pasir Barusintok. We wearily descended the main up-down path, to meet up with the E1 circle route at 1326m (square M'15 on the sector E map). This route offers a much more comfortable route across the final valley, although a major landslide has torn out a broad section of the mountian side at one point. Once safely past the landslide, we soon entered the tea plantation, which was mostly shrouded in mist that blocked out the usual spectacualr views. But the route was still a comfortable stroll, rounding the top end of the plantation to get on the right ridge for the descent to Gedeh village.

This was journey's end for me as I stayed in one of the tea factory's two guest bungalows (contact telephone: 0263 261724) . They are by the road in the village and offer simple facilities in the cool climate of a tea factory vilage. Clarence and Jody drove straight on to Jakarta for a well-deserved bath and a rest. Including our various diversions we covered over 19km. Time on the trail was 10 and a half hours, most of it with intermittent or heavy rain. Next time I will be taking an extra rain cape!

Hiking above Cipanas- the ring route in sector D

2009-02-15T03:20:00.000-08:00

Scared of hiking in Puncak in the rainy season? Don't be!

We took that chance on the slopes above Cipanas last February 7th and were rewarded with a lovely hike- cool, sweat-free and with beautifully clear air looking up to Gunung Gede and down across Cipanas and the Cianjur plateau. Yes, there was rain, but just enough to cool us down without soaking us, and just enough mist to build suspense as we wondered what would be unveiled as it cleared.

Alex, Chris Starkey, myself, Jody Randell and our photographer Clarence Garay (not seen in photo) made a dawn start in the chilly strawberry fields beside the Sarongge tea plantation. (GPS point 9251453 724690
, alt.1339masl; on the sector D map this is in square L16, where the word "strawberries is written above the end of the asphalt road).

Our first sector was to the historic kampung of Babakan Sarongge, where we were lucky enough to enjoy the hospitality of village founder Pak Rosidi. After reading the story of the kampung in the sector D guidebook (pp 40-43), it was a pleasure to visit in person and be warmed up by the sweet tea and interesting tales.

From Babakan Sarongge we followed the D3 route in reverse. This passes first through mixed forest and vegetable garden, where motorcyclists haul vegetables up and down the rutted tracks (see photo).

It then veers into the forest. A landslide at the entry point forced us to cling on to the roots in the hillside for a moment but the rest of the path proved quite simple to follow- having Alex with us no doubt boosted our confidence we were on the right route!

After emerging from the forest just above D3 point B at the National Park sign at 1528 masl ("We guard and protect the animals' bodies and ecosystem" it says), we left the D3 path, heading upward toward Gunung Gede along the boundary between the forest and the fields.

A couple of hundred meters up this path joins the D2 route, which we followed in reverse, reentering the forest at GPS 9251475 0722618. Map users should note that there is a three-way fork at a clearing not marked on the map some 400m after the forest entry: take the center path to keep climbing up to D2 point C, where a friendly WIPA sign is posted on a tree. At 1706masl, this was our highpoint for the day.

Here the path leaves the forest again to enter what is called mixed garden. As Alex points out in the guide, this is supposed to be a reforestation project with a mix of eucalyptus trees and crops. However, the farmers make sure that their vegetables get the lion's share of the light, resulting in the rather scrawny-looking trees seen in the photo.

Continuing along the D2 route in reverse, we rounded the top of the deep gash known as Legok Bangke (Valley of Corpses, allegedly so-named after the 1965 massacres of communists) and shortlyarrived in Gunungputri village, enjoying the clear skies and views across Cipanas below.

Alex left us at this point, 10.9km and 5 h 30 minutes from our start point, while the rest of us enjoyed a pleasant coffee break at the Gunungputri angkot terminus (9252846 722210). The trip between Sarongge and Gunugputri would certainly be a satisfying walk in itself, combining as it does some of the best sections of the D3 and D2 circle routes. But our further goal was to reach Cibodas and link up with the Cibodas-Taman Safari route we covered in December. We left the D2 route to head up toward the Botanical Garden, at first on the asphalt road, and then on the footpaths marked on the map with the red ring route arrows (of course we were following the arrows in reverse). Note that where the footpath turns off the asphalt road, the agrotourism resort has cemented the ridgetop path down toward Gunung Batu, and even built a pleasant lookout shelter. This shelter was particularly fortuitous as this was the one sector of our walk blighted by rain.

But the rain soon let up, bringing fresh, clear skies and a fierce breeze, enabling us to enjoy both great views of Cipanas and the spectacle of those bamboo windmills that usually seem to be lying dormant beside the fields. On this occasion, the owners were out in force to lend support as a wind strong enough almost to blow us off the path set the blades whirring like helicopter propellers. To see these in action, follow the ring route footpath across the Walen valley rather than the asphalt road that passes trhough the Botanical garden.

Our 14km route finished just below the Cibodas tourist area entry gate, which was the starting point for our previous hike over Puncak to Taman Safari. The large car park here has a variety of warungs, providing generous portions of nasi goreng and a selection of Indonesia's most popular beers. The price is half that of Jakarta bars and the air is ten times cleaner!

more on puncak traverses

2009-02-01T02:02:00.000-08:00

Writing a book on the ring route, as you suggest Alex, certainly sounds an exciting proposition. All these mental maps, data and photos need to find a good use. I hope we can soon post some info about the ring route in the sector D area around Cipanas.

Backtracking to Taman Safari, I certainly agree with Alex that the most "normal" route between Joglo and Taman Safari gate would be along the edge of the tea plantation i.e. after descending Gunung Joglo arrive at Point B on the C3 route and then turn right to follow the C3 route in reverse back to point A, then veering left to contour along the top of the tea plantation.

We instead turned left at point B, descending steeply toward the Taman Safari boundary fence. That path was indeed steeper and rougher than the C3 path, so not ideal near the start or finish of a long day, but we had an "ideological" desire to pass as close to Taman Safari as possible.

I didn't get a chance to explore further over Christmas as I was diving in Lombok.

ButI did have a chance to reread Alfred Russel Wallace's classic travelogue "The Malay Archipelago". I actually read that book shortly after I first arrived in Indonesia, and rereading it now that I have actually visited many of the places described I was even more impressed than the first time with Wallace's enterprise as a naturalist and with his many-faceted insights into Indonesia.

The most relevant section for this blog is in the chapter on Java, which Wallace visited in 1861. After a few weeks around Surabaya and Gunung Arjuna, Wallace caught the steamer to Batavia, before setting off to explore the Puncak and climb Gede and Pangrango. He felt disappointed by the Buitenzorg Botanical Gardens (he had by this time spent several years in Eastern Indonesia), he describes heading up toward the "Megamendung Mountain" with a hired horse and porters. But he soon decided to get off his horse and walk, so inspired was he by the "villages imbedded in fruit trees and pretty villas" as well as by the system of terrace-cultivation, which was "I should think, hardly equalled in the world."

After passing a fortnight staying in a roadkeeper's hut near the pass to collect wildlife specimens, he moved on to begin his ascent of the mountains, describing the landmarks familiar to those who climb Gede or Pangrango today: the "governor-general's country house at Tchipanas", the branch of the Botanic Gardens, the picturesque waterfall and the hot spring where the torrent "foams over its rugged bed, sending up clouds of steam". At that time, there was a "hut of open bamboos at a place called Kampung Badak" and Wallace stayed there to keep out of the "thick mist and drizzling rain" in between his ascents to the top of the two mountains.

For Wallace, who had spent most of his time in Indonesia's lowland forests, the thrill of the trip was in observing the change from tropical to temperate flora as he ascended the peak and in considering how European style plants, such as strawberries, raspberries and the "rare and beautiful Royal Cowslip" could be found on an isolated mountain peak south of the equator. He speculates that during a previous ice age temperate flora had spread right across the tropics, but then retreated up the mountain slopes and into the higher latitudes as temperatures rose.

Wallace refers us to "Mr. Darwin's Origin of Species, chapter 2" for a fuller explanation of this phenomenon.

And I refer readers to chapter VII of Wallace's "The Malay Archipelago", which is widely available in Jakarta book shops, probably somewhere near the WIPA Puncak Trek Guidebooks. It's even available in full text online, for those with glare-proof eyes. It really does offer a fascinating view into Indonesia as it used to be.

Comment on a Puncak Traverse

2008-12-21T16:52:00.000-08:00

What a joy to read John's splendid post of the Puncak traverse! John and Jody have opened my eyes to some alternative routes that I have never explored since I began walking the foothills in 1991. Sorry I couldn't join you that day but thanks for the invite.

I now link back to a 30 October posting about the C3 detour on my blog. Your journal illuminates an important alternative exit for route C3. After climbing from the ex-outpost (point C) to Pr Mandalawangi and reaching point D, one can return to point B by way of Gn Joglo, as you have done. This circuit would be less hazardous than the ascent to the Puncak and would bring one back to the Start. Further, I remain curious about the path leading up Gn Gegerbenteng from the saddle point on Pr Mandalawangi, mentioned on 30 Oct. The path was not there some years ago when I passed this way. Given the deteriorating conditions on the Gn Gegerbenteng traverse, I would not be surprised if the locals have opened a new traverse higher up the mountain. I look forward to exploring this alternative myself next year, if someone else does not get there first.

I am curious about your route beyond point B. In your place, I would probably have gone from point B to point A, then turned left on the stone road and contoured around the upper end of the tea plantation, where you seem to have ended up anyway. Which of these routes looks preferable to you?

At the rate you guys are going, you'll soon finish trekking the ring route in sectors B, C, D, and E. You are innovating as you go along. How'd you like to write a guidebook to the ringroute in those 4 sectors, with photos and GPS coordinates?

Pitcher plants in Puncak

2008-12-20T22:45:00.000-08:00

I'd like to add a couple of photos to the account of the Cibodas to Taman Safari walk below.

Besides the large mushroom in the picture we also found a small pitcher plant during the ascent of Gunung Joglo. Does anyone know if these are common in the Puncak forests? Are there lots of different kinds? Are they climbers or ground-growing? We haven't found many, but perhaps that's because we haven't been looking very closely!

The view is looking down toward the Puncak Pass hotel and surrounding area from Pasir Pangsalatan, just before reaching the Puncak ridgeline. To the right is the view back toward Cipanas from the same spot. This section of the route is quite thickly wooded so we were lucky to find a small opening in the vegetation to shoot these pictures.

Cibodas to Taman Safari- A Puncak Traverse

2008-12-14T03:23:00.000-08:00

After our November walk between Taman Safari and Arca, we contemplated the next enticing stage of the ring route, a traverse across the Puncak ridge from Cibodas on the Cianjur side to Taman Safari on the Bogor side. Although it would be possible to break this into shorter sections, the prospect of connecting Puncak's two most celebrated tourist attractions- Cibodas Botanical Gardens and Taman Safari Indonesia- with a single "classic" hike was too enticing to resist.

And so it was that we (i.e. Jody Randell and I) set out on Saturday December 13th, starting at 6.30 from just in front of the large entrance toll gate to the Cibodas recreation area.

Using the Sector D (Cipanas) map we mainly followed the red ring route arrows, (though of course in the reverse direction to that marked on the map). From the crossroads 100m below the gate, descend northwest and take the footpath to the left of the lone villa. This turns into a comfortable asphalt track that winds into the valley past a dilapidated tennis court. Take the footpath on the left shortly after the tennis court, cross the concrete footbridge over the stream, cross the vegetable fields for 50m and then head left up the slope toward Hartono garden. (We must have missed the earlier stream crossing marked on the map.)

Enjoy the fine views back toward the villages along the Cibodas road and then enter the cool shade of the beautiful Hartono garden, keeping on the uppermost of the various flower-lined footpaths. (The more leisurely D1 circle route allows ample time to explore the gardens in all their glory.) Exit the garden at the north gate, continue 100m or so and then head right up the slope through the cabbage fields. We got lost in the tomatoes but the farmers were there to set us back on the right track, past the large water tanks onto the ridge top. Once there, one's position is unmistakeable as it affords sweeping views of Kampung Gegerbentang in the valley on the north side, Gede and Pangrango beyond the forest to the south, and all the hills and plateaux of the Cianjur regency spread out behind you.

Heading up the ridge we passed a plantation of temptingly juicy arbei and then, 1 hour 30 minutes after setting out, we entered the forest, passing a wooden sign marked Pasir Buntu. The first section in the forest is a pleasant stroll on a narrowing, with occasional vistas right beyond the Cibodas parking area and on to Gunungputri village (start of the D2 circle route). Freshly painted steel posts have been planted every 100m along the route, which is obviously popular with woodcutters. (At this point we transfer from the western edge of the Cipanas map square D' to the eastern edge of the Cisarua map square J.)

After the 1000m marker the path forks, with the steel posts taking the right fork to Legokbabah and our ridge path heading left, marked by friendly orange ribbons tied on a tree here and there. The heart poundingly steep stretch begins as you approach 1500m altitude but the path is mostly dry and offers a firm footing. Higher up the gradient slackens but the path becomes tougher as it veers right off the ridge line and becomes narrow and treacherous. To compensate, the occasional clearings in the vegetation afford broad views across to the Puncak watershed, the radio towers familiar from the C3 and C4 circle route, and all the hotels, villas and restaurants on the Cianjur slope.

Eventually, with 5.5 km covered in 3 hours shown on the GPS, we reached the four-way junction on the Gegerbentang ridge, a comfortable rest stop with enough space to pitch a tent. From here, the summit of Gegerbentang (2042m) is temptingly close, less than 200m above us. But with many kilometers and an unfamiliar trek over Gunung Joglo still ahead of us, we decided to leave the summit for another day. (The quickest route up and down is probably from Cibodas and back down the same way, or descending directly to the Puncak highway.)

From this junction, our route (the middle of the three paths before us) contoured around the northwest slope of Gegerbentang, passing over plenty of fallen trees that threatened to block off the route but never quite did. The distant wail of the loudspeakers from Cibodas, that had accompanied us on the ascent, was replaced by the alternative wail of the speakers from Gunung Mas, wafting in and out of the mist that now shrouded us against the wooded slopes. After reaching our day's high point of 1900masl we descended the western ridge of Gegerbentang. After several hours on unfamiliar paths, the fourway clearing which is point D on the C3 circle seemed comfortingly familiar and pleasantly silent, as the loudspeakers finally faded completely. At this point we were 7.9km and four hours from our start point, but fortified ourselves with sandwiches and fruit.

(On the map the marked ring route passes through Kampung Mandalawangi, point C on the C3 circle route, and then follows the lower C3 path along the side of the valley.
Alex, in his trekking blog
http://puncaktrek.blogspot.com/2008/10/high-altitude-detour-on-route-c3.html
describes two routes for passing from Kampung Mandalawangi to the Puncak ridgeline as part of the C3 walk. One route involves ascending from Kampung Mandalawangi to the 1900m high point mentioned above, then descending as we did to the point D clearing where we stopped for sandwiches and continuing the C3 path as marked on the map. The second route involves ascending from Kampung Mandalawangi to the 1900m high point, then contouring around Gunung Gegerbentang to the fourway junction on the Gegerbentang ridge i.e. our route in reverse, and then descending toward the main Puncak highway.

I walked the C3 route twice last year; the first time it was hard to find the marked trail from point C to point D and both times it was hard to find the last section of the trail approaching point E as the path seems to peter out in some secondary forest growth. As an alternative route from point C to point E, I guess it would be best to follow Alex's second route, asending from Kampung Mandalawangi to the Gegerbentang west ridge, and then contouring around to the Gegerbentang north ridge. The path was treacherously slippy but easy to follow whereas the D to E path marked on the map was treacherous and difficult to follow.)

But now let's conclude our sandwich break at the C3 point D clearing and begin the traverse westwards over Gunung Joglo.

From the clearing the Gunung Joglo path first descends to a broad saddle and then rises again before following a flattish ridgeline. The path here is surprisingly well-trodden and marked by blue ribbons strung on trees. There are a couple of indistinct passages and one section atop a small knoll in serious need of a machete, but on much of the flat ridge top the tree cover is light and the path remarkably reminiscent of a walk in the park! The only obstacles are the inevitable thorny creepers and occasional low-hanging branches. Keep in mind also that this is leech country. Leech haters can take the well-known precaution of dipping socks in tobacco juice, while the more leech-friendly might simply wait for a rest stop before hauling the little creatures out from under a bootlace and flicking them away.

The summit of Gunung Joglo (1844m) is a broad, thinly-wooded knoll with a large space for several tents, though still pleasantly free from the plastic garbage that often mars forest shelter sites. On the west side the path soon starts to drop quite steeply; the cautious will tread gingerly throughout the descent. Eventually there is an almost sheer 3 meter drop requiring hand holds and the path joins the C3 circle route in a grassy clearing. Head right for 50m, then left to descend to the narrow shelf which is point B on the C3 route.

From this point, which we reached 6 hours 30 minutes and 10.8 km after setting out, the shortest exit, and the safest in bad weather, would probably be to turn right along the C3 path down to the Gunung Mas plantation and out via the tea tracks. We, however, set our course for Taman Safari, taking the path down to the left. After passing a large camping area, where there is also a path diverging up the slope, the route desends steeply; if anything it is steeper, trickier and more overgrown than the route down Gunung Joglo. Avoid the woodcutter's path off to the right, which appears to be a dead end, and keep descending until you come to a t-junction where a white plastic pipe runs just under the soil. A few meters to the left water gushes from a hole in the pipe, offering a welcome chance for a wash and a drink refill.

The path to Taman Safari heads to the right, following the pipe downwards and passing a concrete dam before finally joining a betterl-trodden and flatter path. Head right here to pass a raised concrete water tank and then hear a stream that comes in from the right. Just before the stream is a grassy trail on the left toward Taman Safari. Our hope of a shortcut to the tiger enclosure was foiled however by the park's wire boundary fence, a steep drop on the other side and some vicious stinging nettles that will plague anyone who has survived the pricks and thorns of Gunung Joglo unscathed. We returned to the stream, crossed it and then contoured up out of the valley, looking across to the park's spreading flame trees and African tulip trees, nestled beneath us. As we came down Gunung Joglo we had begun to hear the loudspeakers and exultant shouting of the visitors at the outbound center, and now we were able to glimpse them, as well as a few cars touring into the herbivore section of the park. While walking the C2 route last year, we even manged to spot zebras and elephants, but on this occasion they appeared to be well-concealed under the shady leaves.

On emerging from the valley the complexion of the landscape changes again and you face tea plantations with their crisscrossing paths, neatly spread villas and their manicured lawns, a sharp contrast to the dense, unruly vegetation of the last eight hours!

Turn left as you enter the tea and follow the boundary on the left between the plantation and the scrub for about 200m. Dip out of the tea plantation onto a narrow footpath to the left, hemmed in by the mesh boundary fence of Taman Safari on one side and an iron fence marking off land for villa construction on the other. Over the precipice on your left are the auxiliary buildings and entrance roads to Taman Safari, reminding you of the impressive size and scale of the whole enterprise. This path emerges at the corner of a field, where you proceed right for 30m to find the head of an asphalt road.

At this point the rain, which had been menacing all afternoon, finally began to teem down. The timing was fine by us as from this point the walk is simply a pleasant jaunt past the intriguingly varied villas, including several under construction, of the Cibereum hillside. At 4.00p.m., 9 hours 30 minutes and 17 km after starting out, we rolled into the Cibereum market square to indulge in warmly grilled corn and somewhat less warm beer.

What a satisfying hike! How glorious that travelling from Cibodas to Taman Safari can mean so much more than a traffic jam! What a sense of new vision one gets from linking those two so familiar landmarks of Puncak tourism in a novel, and, for us, previously unimagined way!

I would certainly be interested to hear from anyone who has walked this route before.

For anyone thinking of following us I can recommend the route highly, although one should certainly become comfortable first using the WIPA maps and hiking over the various kinds of terrain shown on them, as this is an arduous day's hike. But we went at a sedate pace, and fit and experienced walkers would probably require much less than our 9 hours 30 minutes.

It would be a challenge to cover the route in the opposite direction, from Taman Safari to Cibodas, but I believe our route was preferable. First, for those returning directly to Bogor/ Jakarta, it cuts down the potential length of the traffic jam on th eride home! Second, it involves less climbing, starting from 1280m, climbing to 1900m and then descending to 1070m. Third, the most spectacular scenery, on the Pasir Pangsalatan above the Hartono garden, is encountered early in the morning, before the clouds roll in. Fourth, the most treacherous parts of the hike, contouring around Gunung Gegerbentang, are also encountered fairly early on, before fatigue saps away the balance and spring that are necessary to keep a safe footing on the subsiding footpaths.

I hope the above description inspires a few people to head out and explore the beautiful Puncak countryside. Our walk certainly inspired us to feel gratitude and respect for the people who originally cut the trails, and the people who mapped them!

Top Teen Trek

2008-12-08T19:08:00.000-08:00

This posting was prepared by Robert Baldwin, who lives in Pancawati.

This was a 2-day hike with high school kids from the British International School, their second venture with me into the foothills of Mt Pangrango.

We started from Cipare at 9:30 on Saturday 6 December. Good weather meant the views of Mt Salak on the walk to Pancawati village were terrific. The descent into Nangleng valley was slick, recent rains having created a few small landslides. We headed up the Pondokcatang ridge and breakfasted just before entering the forest at 10:30, the two streams below providing superb background music. This track is well-travelled, villages often using the trails to gather firewood. Small trails often lead out from the wood gathering stations. An hour into the forest and Will was struggling to keep up. Then he slipped, a sharp stick piercing the skin on his shin. First aid was applied, then we reached point B and turned right. The descent proved prickly, the rattan bordering this trail loved catching on backpacks, hats and clothes. The weather “gods” were extremely good to us and our descent into Luewisapi was bathed in sunshine. At 1:30 we lunched beside the Ci Mande then traversed Luewisapi village. A final rest in the valley the Ci Mande, before the hard slog out of the valley back to Pancawati by 3:30 pm.

All the teams pitched their tents. By 5 the tents were up, the rain had held off. Cameron fired up a bonfire. With darkness approaching all teams cooked themselves a “gourmet” meal. Ardy excelling in as chef and all seemed more than happy with their cooking results. Baldy’s barby of steaks and snags kept the leadership happy. By 8:00 cleanup was over and all teams were in their tents, a stiff breeze blowing. Tom was up barking orders at 05:15. The night had been cold, the sleeping fair, and the weather kind. Breaking camp took longer than anticipated. Backpack checks showed the trekkers had greatly improved their packing skills. Packs sat straighter and weight distribution was better.Some cooked breakfast, others ate snacks and pre-cooked food. By 7:15 the campsite was spick and span, tents packed away, trekkers full and ready for another day on the road. We walked back to Cipare to get buses to Pondokmentang. At Luewilarangan an aquaduct above the road threw a spanner into our “not-so-well-thought-out” plans. The 22 seater could not get under the duct, the air-con unit on top 10 cm too high. The smaller bus took the first group to Pondokmenteng and returned to pick the second group of hikers, who had meanwhile strolled on the LBC road. This was a bit like walking through the Jakarta Hamptons – lots of beautiful villas with manicured gardens. We left Pondokmenteng to follow the Ring Route to the northeast at 8:30.

The grand old daddy of Puncak trekking, Alex Korns, joined us at Pondokmenteng. Again the weather was great. The valley trails were still slick early in the morning, all trekkers spending time on their rumps, slipping and sliding on descents. With time lost early, new schedules were set and the hike’s tempo increased. We crossed the Ci Pondokmenteg, the Ci Bedug, the Ci Salada, and the Ci Ledug.With noon approaching we were ascending out of the last valley, the Ci Kereteg. The valley was magnificent, carpeted with Oz green padi fields, bordered by lush forests at the top. A truly beautiful view to cap off a great weekend. We arrived at Arca at twelve, had lunch and listened to Alex’s narrative about the history of the German military cemetery at Arca. From Arca we walked the final 2k back to Sukaresmi to get back on the buses for Jakarta. All trekkers reached the buses with plenty still in the tank.Many, many thanks to all involved, to Tom for organizing the trip and providing superb leadership, to the teens – it was a real pleasure sharing a couple of days with you. To Empad, Entab, Jeje and Chandra for carrying drinks in and garbage out, to Nina for managing the camp site.

The Disappearing Gong-gong Bird

2008-12-03T02:11:00.000-08:00

Since 1991, when I first began walking in the forests around the foothills of Gn Gede and Pangrango, I have become accustomed to the call of the gong-gong bird, the puyuh gonggong. The haunting double-hoot of this ground-bird can be heard over long distances. I have never seen this bird, and have recently begun to hear it less and less often. On Sunday 30 November, the reason for its gradual disappearance became clear, as I was walking with Robert Baldwin of Pancawati down the well-forested ridgeline of Pr Kramat, near to the village of Pancawati in sector B.

We were puzzled to see many holes in the ground beside the trail, that looked as if they had been dug recently with a shovel. At one of them, I saw an oddly-shaped inverted "basket" beside the hole. Our guide Pk Empad explained that this was an ingenious trap for the gonggong bird. There were actually two holes, one open and the other below the basket, with a "tunnel" between the holes. When in use, the open hole is to be covered with many leaves, so that a heavy walking bird might fall into the hole and fail to see any light above him. Instead, he would see light at the end of the tunnel, which would lead him to work his way into the second hole and thence up to the basket from which he could no longer escape.

"The gong-gong bird has become rare in the forest, most of them have gone to the city", joked the younger of our two guides. ("Burung gong2 sudah jadi langkah di hutan, kebanyakan di kota".)

Afloat in the Cisukabirus (B4)

2008-11-25T01:45:00.001-08:00

Thanks John for that account. I just want to add a photo of our friend Jody Randall, enjoying his cool dip in the clear waters of the Cisukabirus beside the bamboo bridge in Jarimun (on route B4) on the crossing of the valley between Lemahneundeut and Arca. The cold water (must have been 22C or less) didn't seem to faze him, did it!

Taman Safari to Arca

2008-11-23T03:02:00.000-08:00

That stone road Alex describes from the Taman Safari entrance to Lemahneundeut is certainly a fine walk. In all the walks I've done using Alex's maps I hadn't realised you could enjoy such splendid forest scenery and broad views without ever leaving a broad and comfortable track! That particular section gives a real sweeping impression back towards Puncak and Gunung Pangrango and forward toward Bogor and Gunung Salak.

We also had the pleasure of stopping at Pak Nanang's organic farm in Lemahneunduet Tonggoh, which offered excellent hospitality and a range of delicious-looking vegetables. If we had been at journey's end we could have bought a few kilos of them, but as we had 5 km of walking ahead we had to refrain.

After Lemahneundeut Tonggoh we continued by crossing the Ci Sukabirus to the German cemetery at Arca, effectively a section of the B4 circle route in reverse. This is one of the deepest and broadest valleys on all the walks and the paddy fields in the bottom, always teeming with busy farmers and specked with multi-colored scarecrows, are truly beautiful.

Finding the path down and up the valley is probbaly easier from this direction than coming from Arca to Lemahneundeut. On the other hand, the section between the cemetery and the pine forest is probably much easier to follow if starting from the cemetery side as one section of the path above the pine forest on Pasir Pari is heavily overgrown.

I'm quickly discovering that practically any walk undertaken away from the paved roads in the in the mapped area will turn out to be delightful!

The End of an Idyll Nears

2008-11-18T04:53:00.000-08:00

Alex Korns posted this after walking on the Ring Route in Sectors C and B

The stone road from Citeko Panjang in sector C to Lemahneundeut Tonggoh in sector B, with its many hairpin turns, offers hikers a easy stroll through tea gardens and old stands of pine and damar with plenty of shade at an altitude of about 1000mdpl. This is one of the easiest walks in the mapped areas, nearly level, about 5-6km long, with views that delight far in excess of the modest effort that it takes to walk this road. On Sunday, 16 Nov, I had the pleasure of walking it with John Hargreaves and Jody Randall, who, I learned, have explored all of the circle routes on the 4 maps since early 2007. Not a single car passed us, and there were no other hikers. We saw two eagles soaring nearby amid the tea gardens.

Those of you who enjoy such walks had better do this road soon. Before long, if all goes according to plan, it will be an improved "alternative" asphalt road with high-speed traffic zipping from Gadog (at the end of the Jagorawi toll road) to Taman Safari. Our first hint of this was when we found the last half kilometer or so near Lemahneundeut to be well paved, for the first time since I hiked this road in the mid-Nineties. The road up from Pasir Muncang to Lemahneundeut Tonggoh has also been repaved. John was able to elicit the full story of this development scheme from a villager during a rest break.

Monkeys Sighted Again on Route B2 Pancawati

2008-11-18T03:33:00.000-08:00

Robert (Baldy) Baldwin, who lives in Pancawati village, submitted this post.

Empad and I took off from my cabin in Pancawati village at 06:45. The weather was fine having rained most of the previous day, the views of Mt Salak and Pangrango majestic. Walking through the farmlands south of Pancawati village was a little discouraging, the locals crops have been hammered by viruses, with too much rain and fog. We got to the forest edge around 8:00 and heard monkeys calling off to the right. After a search through the trees we spotted a large black monkey sunning itself. After a few minutes, branches in surrounding trees started waving and we saw smaller grey monkeys frolicking around in the top of the canopy in Pasir Kramat.

After entering the forest we headed up Pasir Pancawati. The walk was pleasant as the tree cover shaded us from the sun and the forest floor was damp and cool. Upon reaching the top of the ridge we encountered another group of monkeys. Seeing us, a group of 5 or 6 black monkeys bolted from high in the canopy and disappeared from sight, leaving only the crashing sounds of cracking branches behind as they decided we were best avoided. After 2 and a quarter hours we emerged from the forest. It had been a couple of months since we’d passed through there and the grass was significantly higher.

By 11 o’clock we were at the chicken farm. We soon turned left on Jl LBC and after 200 meters turned right into the asphalt road at the top of Leuwilarangan ridge, the valley a lush green with new padi. Many villas here are owned by senior media folk, so I’m told. After about 700 meters we descended the valley to cross to Legok Nyenang. Awesome views until cloud rolled in and drenched us. No bridge over the stream, rock hopping is the order of the day, wet feet virtually guaranteed. By the time we got to the Modern Training complex it was raining heavily. On the Cikereteg main road we stopped for lunch at Pak Nip’s roadside stall. The food was hearty, the coffee great and the hole in the wallet tiny. After lunch we headed down to Lembur Pancawati to finish a couple of beers I’d left in the fridge at Fran’s place a week earlier. The beers were still cold and, as usual, the service superb.

Welcome to the Puncaktrek Collaborative Blog

2008-11-14T05:11:00.000-08:00

Hi there. Evan here. Owner of the googlepages site:http://indonesia.outdoors.googlepages.com.

Alex wants to set up a collaborative site where all us Puncak Trekkers can swap ideas and info. And here it is! In my case, I like to post photos of of the various routes, that someone could print out and bring with them to make sure they are on the same track. I have purposely obscured giving clear directions how to do each trek, because we want to encourage trekkers to buy Alex's excellent mapguides. Some may say Rp500,000 is a lot of money to pay for some maps, but what we are paying for is Alex's 15 years of local knowledge. For people who hate wasting time trekking down dead end trails, the Puncak trekker's guidemaps are a blessing. I dont use a GPS or altimeter, I just depend on Alex's maps and trail notes. Cheers Evan www.nedbatam.com/daytrips

Ring Route in Sector B

2008-10-28T05:55:00.000-07:00

John Hargreaves posted this comment on his Ring Route trek.

I walked from Nangleng to Lemahneundet Tonggoh last Sunday October 26.Between Bangreng and Pancawati (square I2 on the map) there is a new village called Kampung Baru. There is also a small villa on the north side of the asphalt track in square I6 and a new house on the north side of the junction of the track and the footpath in square I9.I got lost between the Ci Pondokmenteng and the Ci Bedug as there seem to be some paths which are not marked on the map.I also found the section descending from the German cemetery to the Ci Sukabirus hard to follow as there are numerous paths not marked on the map. We eventually found walk B4 point C, but as we were tired and remembered that the descent into the valley there is rather steep we took the long way round via Sampalanlinja instead.It was a good 9-hour walk.Is there any prospect of the Sukabumi section of the maps being published any time soon?